How to Sew a Separating Zipper
What You’ll Need:
-
Jacket fabric and completed jacket body (ready for the zipper)
-
Separating zipper (ensure it’s the correct length for your jacket)
-
Fabric marking tools
-
Pins or sewing clips
-
Measuring tape
-
Zipper foot for your sewing machine
-
Thread matching your jacket
-
Iron
Step 1: Prepare the Jacket Opening
Before installing the zipper, ensure the front opening edges of your jacket are even and finished (if applicable). If there are facings or linings, secure them properly by basting.
Step 2: Mark the Zipper Placement
-
Lay the zipper flat along the edge of the jacket, ensuring that the zipper teeth align perfectly with the front center edge.
-
Mark the top and bottom stop positions with a fabric marker. This ensures precise placement.
Step 3: Pin or Clip the Zipper in Place
-
With the jacket open and right side up, pin the right side of the zipper tape to the edge of the jacket fabric, aligning the teeth with the edge.
-
Double-check that the top zipper stop aligns perfectly with the neckline seam and that both sides match up evenly.
-
Use sewing clips if your fabric is thick or slippery.
Step 4: Baste the Zipper
Baste the zipper in place using long, temporary stitches. This ensures the zipper doesn’t shift while sewing.
Step 5: Sew the Zipper
-
Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine.
-
Sew close to the zipper teeth, keeping a straight and even stitch line.
-
Be cautious when sewing over zipper stops, as hitting them with the needle can cause damage.
-
Backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.
Step 6: Repeat for the Other Side
-
Zip the zipper up to ensure it aligns evenly before sewing the opposite side.
-
Pin, baste, and sew as before, ensuring a symmetrical and professional finish.
Step 7: Check the Zipper Function
-
Zip and unzip the jacket several times to ensure smooth functionality.
-
If the zipper catches or misaligns, carefully rip out the problematic section and resew.
Step 8: Finish the Edges
If your jacket has a facing or lining, fold it over the zipper tape and hand-stitch or topstitch to enclose the raw edges neatly.
Pro Tips:
-
Choosing the Right Zipper: For jackets, a heavy-duty or metal zipper is ideal for durability.
-
Zipper Length: If your zipper is too long, you can shorten it by cutting and adding zipper stops.
-
Press as You Sew: Use an iron to press the fabric around the zipper flat for a clean finish.
By following these steps, you’ll achieve a polished and professional-looking zipper installation for your jacket. Happy sewing!
Check the next videotutorial, that shows very well how to sew a separating zipper: