How to Sew Darts: A Complete Guide

Darts are essential sewing techniques that transform flat fabric into shaped, three-dimensional garments. These simple folds, when stitched and pressed, create contours that accommodate the curves of the human body. Whether you're a beginner or looking to refine your technique, mastering darts will dramatically improve the fit and professional appearance of your handmade clothing.

What Are Darts and Why Are They Important?

Darts are triangular or diamond-shaped tucks that remove excess fabric, creating shape and structure in garments. They're commonly found at the bust, waist, and hips in women's clothing and at the back shoulder and waist in men's garments. By understanding how to sew darts properly, you'll be able to:

• Create better-fitting garments that flatter the body
• Add structure to otherwise flat fabric
• Achieve a professional, tailored appearance in your sewing projects

Materials You'll Need

• Your fabric (pre-washed and pressed)
• Sewing pattern with dart markings
• Fabric marking tools (tailor's chalk, washable marker, or tracing paper)
• Straight pins
• Thread to match your fabric
• Sewing machine or needle for hand sewing
• Iron and ironing board

Step-by-Step Guide to Sewing Perfect Darts

1. Transfer the Dart Markings

Begin by accurately transferring dart markings from your pattern to your fabric. Most darts have:

• A dart point (the end point of the dart)
• Dart legs (the two lines that form the triangle)
• Sometimes a dart center line

Common transfer methods include:

• Tailor's chalk or fabric markers
• Thread tracing
• Tailor's tacks
• Tracing paper and tracing wheel

For precise results, mark both sides of the fabric if possible.

2. Prepare the Dart for Sewing

Fold your fabric right sides together along the dart center line, matching the dart legs precisely. Pin perpendicular to the stitching line, starting from the wide end and working toward the dart point.

3. Stitching the Dart

Start sewing at the wide end (usually at the fabric edge or a seam) using a regular stitch length. As you approach the dart point:

• Slightly reduce your stitch length for the last 1/2 inch for stability
• Stitch directly to the point without backstitching
• Sew off the folded edge, leaving thread tails

Pro tip: For a smooth transition at the dart point, sew the last few stitches right along the fold rather than a few threads away from it.

4. Securing the Dart

Instead of backstitching at the dart point (which can create bulk), leave long thread tails and either:

• Tie them in a small knot near the fabric
• Thread them through a needle and secure with a few hand stitches

5. Pressing the Dart

Proper pressing is crucial for professional-looking darts:

• Press the dart flat as sewn first to set the stitches
• Then press in the direction indicated by your pattern:
  • Vertical bust darts typically press downward
  • Waist darts usually press toward the center
  • Shoulder darts generally press toward the center back

For bulkier fabrics, you may want to clip the dart open and press it flat or trim and grade the dart allowance.

Common Types of Darts

Single-Pointed Darts

The most common type, these start at a seam or edge and taper to a point.

Double-Pointed (French) Darts

These begin and end within the fabric, creating a diamond shape. They often run from the waist to the bust and are excellent for creating shape in fitted garments.

Curved Darts

These follow a slight curve rather than a straight line, often used for better-fitting bust darts.

Dart Tucks

These are folded and stitched like darts but not tapered to a point, combining shaping with decorative elements.

Troubleshooting Common Dart Issues

Puckering at the Dart Point:

• Ensure you're not backstitching at the point
• Check your tension settings
• Make sure you're pressing properly

Dart Looks Pointy or Creates a "Torpedo" Effect:

• Your dart may be too long for your body
• Try shortening the dart by 1/2 inch
• Consider using two smaller darts instead of one large one

Darts Don't Match on Both Sides:

• Double-check your markings before cutting
• Transfer pattern markings to both sides of the fabric
• Pin and compare both sides before sewing

Advanced Dart Techniques

Converting Darts to Seams: For complex shaping, darts can be rotated and converted to stylish seam lines.

Dart Manipulation: This pattern-altering technique allows you to move darts to different positions while maintaining the same fit.

Dart Equivalents: Design elements like gathers, pleats, and princess seams can replace darts while creating similar shaping.

Final Tips for Professional Results

• Always test darts on scrap fabric first, especially when working with a new pattern
• Consider the fabric weight when deciding how to press and finish darts
• For better visualization, mark and sew all darts before proceeding to other construction steps
• Remember that darts should point toward the fullest part of the curve they're accommodating