How to Sew Buttons and Buttonholes: A Complete Guide
Buttons and buttonholes are essential closures in garment construction, offering both functionality and aesthetic appeal. Whether you're sewing a blouse, jacket, or even a decorative piece, knowing how to properly sew buttons and create buttonholes ensures durability and a polished finish. In this guide, we'll cover step-by-step instructions for both hand-sewn and machine-made techniques.
How to Sew a Button by Hand
Sewing buttons by hand is a quick and effective way to secure closures on garments. Here’s how to do it properly:
Materials Needed:
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Needle
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Thread (matching or contrasting color)
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Button
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Scissors
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Marking tool (chalk or fabric pen)
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Optional: Toothpick or small spacer (for shank buttons)
Step-by-Step Instructions:
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Mark the Button Placement: Use a marking tool to indicate where the button should go, ensuring it aligns with the corresponding buttonhole.
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Thread the Needle: Cut a length of thread (about 18 inches) and knot the end.
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Secure the Thread: Start by bringing the needle up from the backside of the fabric to hide the knot underneath.
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Sew Through the Button: Pass the needle through one hole of the button, then down through the opposite hole. Repeat 4-6 times for strength. If your button has four holes, sew diagonally or in a crisscross pattern.
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Create a Thread Shank (for thicker fabrics): If extra space is needed between the button and fabric, place a toothpick under the button while sewing. Once secured, wrap the thread around the stitches beneath the button before knotting.
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Secure the Thread: Tie a knot on the fabric’s underside and trim excess thread.
How to Sew a Button by Machine
Many sewing machines have a button-sewing function that makes attaching buttons quicker and more uniform.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
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Attach the Button Sewing Foot: If your machine has one, install it according to the manual.
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Drop the Feed Dogs: This prevents the fabric from moving while you sew.
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Align the Button: Place the button under the presser foot, ensuring the holes are aligned with the needle.
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Set the Stitch: Select a zigzag stitch and adjust the width to match the buttonhole spacing.
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Sew the Button: Slowly stitch back and forth about 6-8 times, securing the button in place.
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Tie Off and Trim Threads: Once done, trim any excess thread and reinforce if necessary.
How to Sew a Buttonhole by Machine
Most modern sewing machines include an automatic buttonhole function, but a manual option is also available.
Step-by-Step Instructions:
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Measure the Button: Determine the buttonhole length by adding 1/8 inch to the button diameter.
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Mark the Buttonhole Placement: Use chalk or a fabric pen to draw the length of the buttonhole where needed.
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Attach the Buttonhole Foot: This helps guide the fabric and ensures consistent sizing.
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Select the Buttonhole Stitch: Choose an automatic buttonhole setting if available, or manually sew using a tight zigzag stitch.
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Stitch the Buttonhole: Start at one end and sew the length before switching to the opposite bar tack. Ensure stitches are even.
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Cut Open the Buttonhole: Use a seam ripper or small scissors to carefully open the buttonhole.
Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them
Problem: The button is too loose or too tight. Solution: Adjust the thread tension or create a thread shank for more flexibility.
Problem: The buttonhole is too small. Solution: Always measure accurately and test on scrap fabric before sewing on the garment.
Problem: The buttonhole fabric frays. Solution: Use fray check or a zigzag stitch around the buttonhole to reinforce it.