How to sew a Fly Front Zipper

Sewing a fly front zipper can seem daunting, but with the right steps and patience, you'll achieve a professional finish. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you master this technique:

Materials Needed:

  • Fly front zipper
  • Fabric for your project
  • Zipper foot for your sewing machine
  • Pins or fabric clips
  • Fabric marker or chalk
  • Iron

Step 1: Preparing the Pieces

  1. Cut and Interface: Cut out your fabric pieces as per your pattern instructions. Interface the fly shield and fly facing pieces for added stability.
  2. Mark the Placement: Use a fabric marker to mark the placement lines for the zipper on the wrong side of your fabric.

Step 2: Sewing the Fly Shield

  1. Stitch the Fly Shield: Fold the fly shield piece in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch along the edge, then turn it right side out and press.
  2. Attach to the Pants: Pin the fly shield to the right front pants piece along the center front edge, aligning raw edges. Baste in place.

Step 3: Installing the Zipper

  1. Place the Zipper: Lay the zipper face down on the basted fly shield, aligning the zipper teeth with the edge. Pin or clip in place.
  2. Sew the Zipper: Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the fly shield, sewing close to the teeth.
  3. Topstitch the Fly Facing: Attach the fly facing to the left front pants piece, sewing along the marked placement line. Press the seam allowance toward the facing and topstitch close to the edge.

Step 4: Assembling the Fly

  1. Close the Fly: Fold the fly facing over the zipper and fly shield, enclosing the zipper. Pin in place.
  2. Topstitch the Fly: Starting from the waistband, topstitch around the fly, creating the classic "J" shape. Ensure to backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement.
  3. Bar Tack: Add a bar tack at the bottom of the fly to secure the zipper and reinforce the area.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

  1. Secure the Waistband: Attach the waistband as per your pattern instructions, ensuring the top of the zipper is enclosed.
  2. Final Press: Give your fly front zipper a final press to set the stitches and smooth out the fabric.

Tips for Success:

  • Practice: If you're new to sewing zippers, practice on scrap fabric before tackling your main project.
  • Patience: Take your time with each step to ensure accuracy and a clean finish.
  • Use the Right Foot: A zipper foot is essential for getting close to the zipper teeth and achieving a professional look.

With these steps, you'll have a beautifully sewn fly front zipper that adds a professional touch to your garments. Happy sewing!


Check the next videotutorial that shows how to sew a Fly Front Zipper easily:

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