How to Sew Perfect Side Slant Pockets
Side slant pockets (also known as on-seam pockets or diagonal pockets) are a versatile and practical addition to garments like skirts, dresses, and pants. These pockets blend seamlessly into the side seam while providing convenient storage. They're the perfect combination of function and style - invisible when not in use but always ready when you need to slip your hands or small items inside. Let's walk through the process of adding these useful pockets to your next sewing project.
Why Add Side Slant Pockets?
- They provide practical storage without disrupting your garment's silhouette
- The diagonal opening makes them easy to slip your hands into
- They're more secure than patch pockets as items are less likely to fall out
- They add a professional, tailored touch to homemade garments
Materials You'll Need
- Main fabric (your garment pieces)
- Pocket fabric (can be self-fabric or lighter weight fabric)
- Paper for creating pocket pattern pieces
- Marking tools (chalk, washable marker, etc.)
- Pins or clips
- Iron and ironing board
- Sewing machine
- Thread
Creating Your Pocket Pattern
If your pattern doesn't include pocket pieces, you can easily draft them:
- Draw a pocket shape that's roughly 6-7" wide and 8-9" deep (or to your preference)
- Create a slightly curved bottom edge
- Mark the pocket opening (usually 5-7" long)
- Add seam allowances around all edges
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Mark Your Pocket Placement
Mark the pocket opening position on the right side of your front garment piece(s). This is typically 3-4" down from the waistline but check your pattern for specific placement. The opening should be at a comfortable angle for your hands.
Step 2: Prepare Your Pocket Pieces
Cut four pocket pieces total - two for each side. If using a lighter weight fabric for the pocket bags, use this for the inner pieces only.
Step 3: Attach Pocket Facing to Garment Front
With right sides together, align the straight edge of one pocket piece with the marked pocket opening on your garment front. Pin in place and sew along the pocket opening line.
Step 4: Press and Understitch
Press the pocket piece away from the garment. Understitch close to the seam through the pocket piece and seam allowance (but not through the garment) to prevent the pocket from rolling outward.
Step 5: Attach Pocket Facing to Garment Back
Repeat Steps 3-4 with your garment back piece and another pocket piece.
Step 6: Complete the Pocket Bag
Place your garment pieces right sides together, aligning the side seams. Pin around the outer edges of the pocket pieces. Sew around the entire pocket bag, starting and ending where the pocket meets the side seam.
Step 7: Sew the Side Seam
Sew the side seam of your garment, stopping when you reach the pocket, jumping over it, and continuing below the pocket. Be sure to backstitch where the pocket meets the side seam for reinforcement.
Step 8: Press the Finished Pocket
Press the side seam allowances open above and below the pocket. Press the pocket bag toward the front of the garment.
Tips for Professional Results
- Interface the pocket opening area if using lightweight fabrics
- Reinforce the top and bottom of the pocket opening with extra stitching or bar tacks
- Consider using a lighter weight fabric for pocket bags to reduce bulk
- Match patterns at the pocket opening for an invisible finish
- Stay-stitch curved pocket edges to prevent stretching
- Finish all raw edges with your preferred seam finish
Troubleshooting Common Issues
- Gaping pocket openings: Add interfacing to stabilize or adjust the angle of the opening
- Pocket bags showing through: Use a lighter fabric for the pocket bags or move them slightly toward the back
- Pockets sagging: Reinforce the top of the pocket with stay tape or consider adding a smaller pocket bag
- Bulky seams: Grade your seam allowances and consider using a lighter weight fabric for the pocket bags
